The Les Enfants du champagne finally met, after the “covid break”, at the Enoteca Pinchiorri in Florence to taste and drink 13 proprietary cuvées, coming from the most suitable and most expressive territories of champagne.
We have gone from the minerality of the pure chardonnay to the austerity of the pure pinot noir through the Meuniers full of charm, to the vintages produced only in special vintages, arriving at the rosé d’assemblage, up to a rare Rosé de Saignée (pink with blood, it would mean that the grape has been bled). The creators of this important project are Enrico Mazza and Alessandro Natali and their work is the fruit of twenty years of research, tasting and work. Six chefs de cave were selected and Enrico Mazza and Alessandro Natali worked alongside them giving their contribution in the search for grapes that could best express their identity in a particular terroir.
How did the idea for this dinner-tasting come about? Some time before I was invited to Florence for a dinner by friends of Piero and Antonella Cheli who told me that they would have a dinner with two starred chefs and that they would drink some champagnes, all this without going into details. On the fixed day, I go to this dinner with my wife and see a beautifully set table and two chefs who were already at work. At dinner I meet a friend, a sales agent, Andrea Tagliafraschi who accompanied Enrico Mazza and Alessandro Natali, people I had never met, who make us drink four champagnes during dinner. I am struck by their minerality and the grace of their bubbles. From here it was instinctive for me to ask to be able to organize a tasting dinner of all their 13 champagnes at the Enoteca Pinchiorri with Les Enfants du Champagne.
This happened and the dinner was held on March 10, 2022. For the occasion, chefs Riccardo Manco and Luca della Tommasina created a 13-course menu, one course for champagne. What a delight!
All perfectly spot on, both the quality of the food and the pairings. Maximum attention to the table, to the service of both the food and the champagnes.
The evening was attended by Les Enfants du Champagnes: Leo Damiani, Stefano Azzolari, Marco Maffei, Valerio Mearini, Maurizio Tarquini, Orazio Vagnozzi, Vincenzo Tardini replacing Roberto Schneuwly who was absent and myself. Also present were Andrea Tagliafraschi, Extrè’s sales agent for Tuscany, and Enrico Mazza.
Menu:
• Aperitif in the Cellar with mis en bouche paired with XI L’Hoste Iconique brut;
• Warm salsify salad and fried Fascine prawns, San Rossore pine nut cream, smoked mozzarella milk paired with IV Berthelot-Pinot Folie Royale;
• Almond and Celline olive soup, artichokes with bergamot and lobster with juniper paired with X Derouillat Cote du Rêve;
• Hazelnut fritter with venison tartare paired with V Lionel Carreau Jalon du Plaisir blanc de noir;
• Eel ravioli with tamarind broth paired with IX Lionel Carreau Fleur de Corail rosé;
• Capellini cooked in porcini mushroom reduction, sea urchins and marinara mussel powder served with IV Stephane Coquillette Cuvée Almas blanc de blanc Grand Cru;
• Risotto with carrots and star anise, scampi alla plancia, veal nerves with capers combined with I David Coutelas Jeux de Forid;
• Baked bread and pheasant served with VIII Stephane Coquillette Scepter Noir blanc de blanc Grand Cru;
• Vignaiole snails cooked in a pan, cream of polenta with fresh spices, chicory and coconut gravy, dish paired with III Derouillat Ile sur Nil rosé de Saignée 2013;
• “Tordellini” of salami, saffron cream, pistachio pesto and chamomile served with VII David Coutelas Cru de Neiges blanc de blanc Grand Cru;
• Spit-roasted Mora Romagnola piglet, horseradish apples and pumpkin and cinnamon compote perfectly married to the Derouillat Cvuée d’Orient brut 2014;
• Redfish fillet steamed and then fried with cacciucco reduction, mustard-flavoured chard and grilled tomato oil paired with XII Stephane Coquillette Clé d’Hiram blanc de noir 2012;
• Roe deer glazed with honey and cocoa, dark Jerusalem artichoke, apple with rose and chilli tasted together with the splendid XIII Réserve Suprême millésime 2004;
Following are the tasting notes of the champagnes of the evening:
CHAMPAGNE EXTRÉ
XI CHAMPAGNE L’HOSTE
ICONIQUE BRUT s.a.
(Grapes: 55% Chardonnay and 45% Pinot Noir)
This cuvée is produced in the Côte des Blancs.
The subsoil is composed of limestone and outcropping gypsum.
Gypsum is characterized by the presence of molluscs from the secondary era. The soil can store between 300 and 400 liters of water per cubic metre.
Fermentation is carried out in steel drums. It carries out the malolactic fermentation (dosage 7gr/l and rests on the lees for 36 months).
Straw yellow dress with gold textures.
The bubbles are fine and numerous.
On the nose it spreads aromas of brioche bread, minerals, iodine, yellow flowers, pineapple, fresh celery, Kaiser pear to end with suffused memories of Marseille soap.
On the palate the bubbles are fine and the body is medium. Rich is the flavor that is accompanied by a pleasant minerality.
Well balanced wine with freshness that expands throughout the oral cavity which completely dominates the alcoholic mass. Its gustatory persistence is long with a yellow grapefruit finish. (90/100)
CHAMPAGNE EXTRÉ
CHAMPAGNE BERTHELOT – PIOT
IV FOLIE ROYALE Brut s.a.
(Grapes: 80%Pinot Meunier e 20% Chardonnay)
The vines are in the Vallée de la Marme which is the youngest part of Champagne, as the upward pressure of the Alps to the southeast and the sinking of the Paris Basin to the northwest have pushed the chalk layer ever deeper, favoring the raising of clay, sand and a small part of limestone.
Fermentation carried out in steel. After the malolactic fermentation, it rests on the lees for 36 months, dosage 6 g/l.
Shiny golden yellow dress. Fine and generous bubbles.
An intense chalk aroma rises from the glass followed by iodine, barley hard candy, yellow flowers, red fruit, ripe apricot, pear, red apple, dried chestnut (chestnut flour), raspberry hard candy, starch spray for ironing, helichrysum (plant that smells of licorice, mint and chamomile) to finish with intense flavors of hard almond shell.
On the palate the bubbles are fine. The body is medium and the wine is salty and buttery. Perfect gustatory balance thanks to the generous freshness that dominates the alcoholic mass. Long is its gustatory persistence. (90/100)
CHAMPAGNE EXTRÉ
CHAMPAGNE DÉROUILLAT
X CÔTE DU RÊVE BRUT s.a.
(Grapes: 55% Pinot Meunier, 30% Chardonnay e 15% Pinot Noir)
The vineyards are in the Coteaux sud d’Epernay.
Predominantly calcareous-clayey soil with south and south-east exposure of the vineyards. Alcoholic fermentation carried out in steel barrels. Performs malolactic fermentation.
The refinement is 48 months in the bottle, dosage 6gr/l.
Intense and shiny gold mantle. The bubbles are fine and numerous.
The nose is explosive with intense aromas of plaster, dried banana, banana peel and Coccoina glue (coconut milk, almond), followed by notes of saltiness, Kaiser pear, yellow grapefruit, grated lemon peel, Marseille soap, peanut wafers , to end with references to hard almond shells.
On the palate the body is medium and the bubbles are very fine. A richly savory and balanced wine between alcohol and freshness. Long is its persistence on the palate with a salty and citrus finish. (91/100)
CHAMPAGNE EXTRÉ
CHAMPAGNE LIONEL CARREAU
V JALON DU PLAISIR
Brut – Blanc de Noirs s.a.
(Grapes: 100% Pinot Noir)
The vineyards are in the côte des Bar. The soils are a mixture of clay and limestone with a marl tendency. The prevalence of clay means that the wine has chalky, mineral hints. The alcoholic fermentation is carried out completely in steel drums.
It carries out the malolactic fermentation and stays 24 months on the lees, dosage 7gr/l.
Golden yellow dress.
Olfactory range made of intense aromas of chalk and juniper berry, followed by pine resin, quince and coccoin glue (coconut milk, almond).
When tasted, the bubbles are fine and the body is medium, flavors of lemon, lime and salt.
Well balanced wine thanks to the generous freshness which neutralizes the alcoholic mass.
Its gustatory persistence is long with a finish of granny smith apple and lime. (91/100)
CHAMPAGNE EXTRÉ
CHAMPAGNE LIONEL CARREAU
IX FLEUR DE CORAIL
Brut – Prestige Rosè s.a.
(Grapes: rosé d’assemblage 90% Pinot Noir and 10% Pinot Noir red wine from the same vineyards)
The vineyards are located in the Côte des Bar.
The subsoil is clayey-limestone with calcareous shells of oysters, molluscs and calcium carbonate. The alcoholic fermentation is carried out in steel barrels. The malolactic fermentation is carried out. The refinement in the bottle takes place for 24 months on the lees.
The dosage is 7gr/l.
Antique pink colour. The bubbles are quite fine and quite numerous.
Olfactory mix made of aromas of macerated raspberry, vanilla, candied cherry, white chocolate, iodine, juniper berry hints, fine ice cream cone wafer, tamarind to end with wild strawberry puffs. On the palate the bubbles are quite fine and the body is medium. Flavors of lemon and pink grapefruit. Wine with marked acidity that does not make the alcoholic mass feel at all. Its intense aromatic persistence is long. It dries out the upper gum a little. (91/100)
CHAMPAGNE EXTRÉ
VI CUVÉE ALMAS
Brut – Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru s.a.
(Grapes: 100% Chardonnay)
The vineyards extend in the Côte des Blanc.
The subsoil mainly consists of chalk and the thickness of the arable soil is less than 20 cm. In certain points the gypsum emerges on the surface therefore the vines are planted on the gypsum rock which acts as a thermal and hygrometric regulator.
The alcoholic fermentation is carried out in steel barrels. Performs malolactic fermentation. The refinement is 36 months on the lees. The dosage is 5gr/l.
It appears bright light golden yellow with fine and quite numerous bubbles.
Nose captivated by the intense aroma of plaster followed by notes of pineapple, acacia honey, rennet apple, pastry, butter, shortcrust pastry, blond leather, wild fennel and star anise.
On the gustatory examination the bubbles are fine while the body is medium. Well balanced wine, savory and mineral. Flavor of acacia honey, rennet apple and cedar which remains throughout its long persistence on the palate. (91/100)
CHAMPAGNE EXTRÉ
CHAMPAGNE DAVID COUTELAS
I JEUX DE FROID Brut s.a.
(Grapes: 70% Chardonnay, 25%Pinot Noit e 5% Pinot Meunier)
The vineyards are in the Vallée de la Marne.
Clayey, sandy and slightly calcareous soil.
Exposure of the vineyards to the south of the highest part of a slope. The alcoholic fermentation is entirely carried out in French oak barriques, there is no filtration and the wine remains in the barriques in the cellar left covered in the middle of winter so that the day-night temperature range that separates the liquid part from the solid and which then precipitates by natural decantation. Does not carry out malolactic fermentation. The refinement is 48 months on the lees and the dosage is 6gr/l.
Bright golden yellow colour. The bubbles are quite fine and quite numerous.
Intense aromas of chalk and juniper berry rise from the glass followed by notes of lemon jelly, minerals, ripe jujube, blond cuocio and Coccoina glue (coconut milk, almond). On the palate the bubbles are fine and the body is medium.
Sapid, mineral and balanced wine with freshness dominating the alcohol mass. Long is its gustatory persistence. (93/100)
CHAMPAGNE EXTRÉ
CHAMPAGNE STÉPHANE COQUILLETTE
VIII SCEPTRE NOIR
Brut Blanc de Noirs Grand Cru s.a.
(Grapes : 100% Pinot Noir)
The vineyards are located in the Montagne de Reims and the soils are deeply chalky and exposed to the south.
The alcoholic fermentation is entirely carried out in steel barrels. The malolactic fermentation is carried out while the refinement takes place for 36 months on the lees. The dosage is 5gr/l.
Bright gold robe. The bubbles are quite fine and quite numerous. On the olfactory approach chalk is in the foreground, followed by aromas of rennet apple, kaiser pear, cotton starch, hard raspberry candy and Coccoina glue (coconut milk, almond).
On the palate the bubbles are fine while the body is medium sufficient plus. Flavor of rennet apple.
Well balanced wine. Its persistence is long with a lemon and rennet apple finish.(91/100)
CHAMPAGNE EXTRÉ
CHAMPAGNE DEROUILLAT
III ÎLE SUR LE NIL
Extra Brut. Rosé de Saignée
MILLESIME 2013
(Grapes: 100% Pinot Meunier)
This champagne is a limited edition because it is produced only in special years.
The vineyards are in the Coteaux Sud d’Epernay.
The soil is calcareous-clayey. The harvest takes place manually grape by grape. The selected grapes are placed in barriques in contact with the skins. The alcoholic fermentation is carried out in French oak barriques.
It carries out the malolactic fermentation, the refinement is 48 months on the lees. The dosage is 3gr/l.
Intense pink colour. The bubbles are very fine and numerous.
The nose is immediately noticed, an intense perfume of talcum powder followed by raspberry, licorice, bitter, iodine, red apple, pink grapefruit, coccoin glue with a rosehip finish.
On the palate the bubbles are fine and the body is medium sufficient.
Well balanced wine with the freshness that dominates the alcohol mass. Its gustatory persistence is long with a rosehip finish. (91/100)
CHAMPAGNE EXTRÉ
CHAMPAGNE DAVID COUTELAS
VII CRU DES NEIGES
Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru s.a
(Grapes : 100% Chardonnay)
The vineyards are in the Côte de Blancs. The soils have a predominance of gypsum consisting of calcite granules and skeletons of marine microorganisms, present in the retreat of the waters of a warm and shallow sea (70 million years ago).
Gypsum is like a sponge therefore it ensures nutrition and balance for the vine even in dry years. The alcoholic fermentation is entirely carried out in French oak barrels.
There is no artificial filtration but natural filtration by cold decantation.
There is no malolactic fermentation. The refinement takes place for 48 months on the lees. The dosage is 5gr/l.
Shiny golden yellow dress.
On the olfactory examination, an intense chalk scent stood out followed by peanut butter, amber, pineapple and the final woody note in a slightly marked way. On the gustatory examination the bubbles are fine while the body is medium. Balanced wine between alcohol and freshness. Taste a little boisé, the upper gum dries a little due to the tannins of the wood. Its gustatory persistence is long with a slightly bitter finish due to the wood.
(92/100)
CHAMPAGNE EXTRÉ
CHAMPAGNE DÈROUILLANT
II CUVÉE D’ORIENT
Brut Millesime 2014
(Grapes : 50% Chardonnay e 50% Pinot Noir)
The vineyards are in the Vallée de la Marme and Côte des Blancs. The soils are chalky and clayey.
The alcoholic fermentation is carried out in steel barrels.
It carries out the malolactic fermentation. The refinement is 60 months on the lees. The dosage is 6gr/l.
Shiny gold colour.
The nose reveals an intense aroma of rennet apple followed by quince, acacia honey and starch (spray starch for ironing).
The gustatory examination reveals fine bubbles, sapidity, minerality and a sufficient medium body plus. Well-balanced wine with alcohol and freshness in perfect tune.
Long is its gustatory persistence. (92/100)
CHAMPAGNE EXTRÉ
CHAMPAGNE STÉPHANE COQUILLETTE
XII CL D’HIRAM
Zero Dosage : Blanc de Noirs
Millesime 2012
(Grapes: 100% Pinot Noir)
The vineyards are in the Montagne de Reims.
The perfect exposure of the vines ensures optimal ripening of the grapes, guaranteeing a perfect gustatory balance between alcohol and freshness.
The alcoholic fermentation takes place in wooden barrels.
It carries out the malolactic fermentation. The refinement lasts 60 months on the lees. The dosage is 0gr/l.
Wears bright gold. The bubbles are fine and quite numerous.
On the nose, among others, the scent of juniper berries emerges followed by chinotto, yellow flowers, oil paint and pine resin.
Mouth caressed by fine bubbles. The body is medium sufficient, while the freshness is exuberant and helps the duration of its persistence.
Freshness replaces the body in persistence when the latter runs out. Flavor of lemon and lime accompanying the persistence.
Well balanced wine thanks to the freshness that dominates the alcoholic mass without second thoughts. (93/100)
CHAMPAGNE EXTRÉ
CHAMPAGNE DAVID COUTELAS
XIII RÉSERVE SUPRÊME
Brut Millesime 2004 (formato magnum)
(Grapes: 60% Chardonnay e 40% Pinot Noir)
It is produced only in the best years.
The vineyards are located in the Côte de Blancs and in the Vallée de la Marme.
The soils are chalky to such an extent that the arable soil is less than 20 cm.
The alcoholic fermentation takes place in French oak barrels, the wine is not filtered artificially but by cold decantation.
Malolactic fermentation is not carried out. The refinement is over 72 months on the lees. The dosage is 6gr/l.
Shiny golden yellow coat. The bubbles are fine and quite numerous.
On the nose, aromas of green banana and blond leather are perceived immersed in the note of vanilla that emerges generously.
You can also hear the boisé note, green banana and juniper berry. The oral cavity is caressed by fine bubbles. The body is medium. Well balanced sapid and mineral wine.
Long is its gustatory persistence.
The upper gum feels a little dry due to the tannins in the wood. (94/100)
Below is the table of scores for the champagnes tasted by Les Enfats du Champagne and Vincenzo Tardini.
| 1 | XIII Reserve Supreme – Vallée de la Marne e Cote des Blancs (60%CH – 40% PN) | 94/100 | |
| 2 | XXII Cle d’Hiram – Montagne de Reims (100% PN) | 93/100 | |
| 3 | I Jeux de Froid – Vallée de la Marne (70%CH – 25%PN – 5% PM) | 93/100 | |
| 4 | VII Cru des Neiges – Cotes des Blancs (100% CH GC) | 92/100 | |
| 5 | II Cuvée d’Orient – Vallée de la Marne e Cote des Blancs (100%CH GC) | 92/100 | |
| 6 | IIl Ile sur le Nil – Coteaux Sud d’Epernay (Rosè de Saignée 100%PM) | 91/100 | |
| 7 | VIII Sceptre Noir – Montagne de Reims (100%PN GC) | 91/100 | |
| 8 | VI Cuvée Almas – Cotes des Blancs (100%CH GC) | 91/100 | |
| 9 | IX Fleur de Corail – Cotes des Bar (Rosé d’Assemblage 90%PN +10%RW) | 91/100 | |
| 10 | V Jalon de plaisir – Cotes des Bar (100%PN) | 91/100 | |
| 11 | X Cote du Reve Coteaux Sud d’Epernay (55% PM 30%CH- 15%PN) | 91/100 | |
| 12 | IV Folie Royale – Vallée de la Marne (80%PM- 20%CH) | 90/100 | |
| 13 | XI Iconique – Cotes des Blancs (55% CH – 45%PN) | 90/100 |
The tasting notes were written by Paolo Baracchino. The scores were averaged and on some champagnes there was sometimes a little difference in the evaluation.
