At the end of 2023, a tasting of Masion Pol Roger champagnes was held at the Enoteca Pinchiorri in Florence, all in magnum format. These were the Brut Reserve, non-vintage, of the 2016, 2006 and 2004 vintages and the Sir Winston Churchill with the 2015, 2012 and 2008 vintages.
The following Les Enfants du champagne were present at the tasting-dinner: Valerio Mearini, Orazio Vagnozzi, Stafano Azzolari, Leo Damiani, Marco Maffei, Maurizio Tarquini, Paolo Baracchino and Paolo Beltramini, substitute enfats, given the absence of Roberto Scheneuwly.
Representing the Maison Pol Roger was Dr. Antonello Calandri, general commercial manager of the “Compagnia del vino”, importer, for Italy, of the evening’s champagnes.
La Maison Pol Roger is located in Épernay at number 32 of Avenue de Champagne.
The Maison was founded in 1849 and owns around one hundred hectares in important areas including Cramant, Ambronnay, Mareuil and others.
The Maison produces refined champagnes including the famous Cuvée de Prestige Sir Winston Churchill which comes out only in the best years and is made up of 60% Pinot Noir grapes, which guarantees structure, breadth and robustness while Chardonnay, present for 40% , gives elegance, finesse and delicacy. The connection between the Maison Pol Roger and Sir Winston Churchill dates back to the end of the Second World War in Paris, France. In April 1944, during a dinner where Pol Roger 1928 was served, Churchill fell so in love with the champagnes of this Maison that he called Pol Roger his fastest racehorse. In 1975, on the occasion of the tenth anniversary of Churchill’s death, the Maison decided to honor this love with a special limited edition production of the highest quality to be dedicated to Sir Winston Churchill.
This vintage was launched on the market nine years later, in 1984, to celebrate the centenary of its birth. This champagne never disappoints as it has a unique refinement and complexity.
The Pinchiorri wine shop has developed a special menu to match the evening’s champagnes.
The Brut reserve was served to us in the cellar with pleasant mise en bouche. Doctor Antonello Calandri illustrated the champagnes to us. After the aperitif we were accompanied to a beautiful private room where dinner was served to us. Before serving each champagne, Dr. Antonello Calandri explained to us the climatic trend of each vintage.
The 2016 vintage was offered with the “juniper-flavoured turbot, with roasted squid sauce and sesame radicchio”, while the 2006 vintage was paired with the soft mountain egg with Jerusalem artichoke foam, almond pesto and black truffle. Continuing our food and wine journey, the dish followed: “Dark potato pearls with saffron cream and fresh veal sausage” which was enriched with a pleasant 2004 vintage.
The service continued with “green lasagne, celeriac béchamel, white pheasant ragout and puffed herbs with Parmigiano Reggiano” which was paired with the young Sir Winston Churchill 2015 with a very generous and pleasant freshness. The following dish was: “100% corn polenta, hazelnut, fir and Castelmagno” with which we sipped the Sir Winston Churchill 2012, characterized, on the palate, by pleasant flavor, minerality and citrus tones of lemon.
Next was: “Double veal cutlet cooked in a casserole with gratinated white turnip, toasted bread sauce and olive juice”. which was enjoyed while drinking a fantastic Sir Winston Churchill 2008 which spread throughout the oral cavity and then went vertical. Excellent match.
To finish we were served the “Brown cake”.
According to all the guests, the dinner was magnificent both for the quality of the food and the quality of the champagne.
My tasting notes for the evening’s champagnes follow.
POL ROGER
Brut Reserve S.A. (grape variety: 34% Chardonnay, 33% Pinot Noir and 33% Pinot Meunier)
Remaining on the yeasts for a minimum of four years, disgorged in September 2022 Large format. Shiny golden yellow color with numerous fine bubbles (central string)
On the nose it has aromas of chalk, raspberry jelly, lemon, starch from the cotton fabric, pine resin, brioche, warm bread to finish with hints of broken cyclamen stem.
Upon tasting it reveals a medium body and fine bubbles.
Well balanced wine with freshness that completely dominates the alcoholic mass.
Flavor of chestnut honey and lemon.
Its flavor persistence is long with a finish of ripe mandarin and grapefruit.
(92/100)
POL ROGER
Vintage Brut, vintage 2016
(grape variety: 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay)
Large format
The grapes come from 20 Grands and Premiers Crus vineyards in the Montagne de Reims and Côtes des Blancs.
Remains on the yeasts for at least 6 years.
Golden yellow color with numerous fine bubbles (central and lateral bubbles).
At the olfactory onset it has an important mineral (smoked) note, brioche bread, ripe raspberry, bergamot, yellow grapefruit and Williams pear.
The olfactory journey continues with intense aromas of Coccoina glue (coconut and almond milk), orange and lemon peel, vanilla, ending with whiffs of helichrysum (licorice, mint and chamomile).
On the palate it has a nice acidity, medium body and Williams pear flavor.
The bubbles are fine and pleasant.
Well balanced wine with imperceptible alcohol mass. Its intense aromatic persistence is long with a hard raspberry candy finish.
It lacks a little power. (93/100)
POL ROGER
Brut Vintage, vintage 2006
(grape variety: 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay)
Stopped in the cellar for 9 years
Large format
Shiny golden yellow shines from the glass.
The bubbles are quite fine and numerous.
Nose gratified by aromas of juniper berry, intense minerals, brewer’s yeast, acacia honey, pastry, espresso, almond shell, caramel (that of the brittle) and peanut butter.
The taste has fine and pleasant bubbles and a medium body. Flavors of juniper berry, chestnut honey, black pepper and natural tea.
Wine well balanced between alcohol and freshness thanks to the latter being generously present. Delicate and powerful champagne at the same time. Its intense aromatic persistence is long. (95/100)
POL ROGER
Brut Vintage, vintage 2004
(grape variety: 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay)
Magnum format. It remained in the cellars for 8 years
Beautiful intense golden yellow, slightly amber, shiny with fine and numerous bubbles.
Olfactory debut with aromas of caramel, mineral, white flowers, Williams pear, acacia honey, intense aromas of Coccoina glue (coconut and almond milk), natural tea, yellow peach, almond shell, finishing with whispers of dried apricot.
On the palate it is savory and mineral, has a medium body and fine bubbles. Generous flavor of chestnut honey.
Well-balanced wine with freshness and minerality that dominate the alcoholic mass without second thoughts.
Its flavor persistence is long with a natural tea finish. (95/100)
POL ROGER
Sir Winston Churchill, vintage 2012
(grape variety: 75% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay)
A large format
Golden yellow robe with gray and green reflections.
The bubbles are fine and numerous and have the shape of a rope.
It expresses a beautiful interpenetration of aromas with hints of Coccoina glue (coconut and almond milk), peanut butter, natural tea, almond shell, oregano white pepper, mineral notes, pastry notes and juniper berry.
Upon tasting it reveals a medium body and fine bubbles. Savory and mineral wine with a citrus flavor of lemon and lemon zest. The taste balance is perfect thanks to the generous and pleasant freshness. Its intense aromatic persistence is long. Beautiful freshness! (97/100)
POL ROGER
Sir Winston Churchill, vintage 2015
(grape variety: 75% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay)
A large format
Visually it is light golden yellow and has numerous fine bubbles that spread in the glass.
On the nose it is like an erupting volcano that spreads intense aromas of peanut and hazelnut into the air, followed by lemon, lemon peel and Williams pear.
On the palate it has a medium plus body and expands in the mouth leaving a natural tea flavour. It surprises with its generous freshness which does not reveal even the slightest hint of alcohol, making the wine completely balanced. Its intense aromatic persistence is long.
The tannins of the wood can be slightly felt on the upper gum. (94/100)
POL ROGER
Sir Winston Churchill, vintage 2008
(grape variety: 75% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay)
A large format
Intense and shiny golden yellow. The bubbles are fine and numerous and form multiple strings.
Aromas of acacia honey, juniper berry, almond shell, pea peel, light white pepper to finish with touches of fireplace ash.
Upon tasting it reveals a medium body and fine, caressing bubbles.
As the wine enters the oral cavity it widens and also goes deeper. The taste balance is perfect.
Its flavor persistence is long with a caramel and chestnut honey finish. I found a little more structure in 2008 than in 2012. (97/100)
Summary of the champagnes whose scores were assigned by the Les Enfants present and by Paolo Beltramini
POL ROGER Brut Reserve S.A. disgorged in September 2022 (92/100)
POL ROGER Vintage Brut, vintage 2016 (93/100)
POL ROGER Brut Vintage, vintage 2006 (95/100)
POL ROGER Brut Vintage, vintage 2004 (95/100)
POL ROGER Sir Winston Churchill, vintage 2012 (97/100)
POL ROGER Sir Winston Churchill, vintage 2015 (94/100)
POL ROGER Sir Winston Churchill, vintage 2008 (97/100)
Memorable evening for the champagnes, the food, the service and the company.
