The first 40 years of Ghiaie della Furba. Lately every year, in Carmignano, at the “Tenuta Capezzana Conte Contini Bonaccossi” a vertical of a wine they produce is held.
A few months ago a vertical of ten vintages of Ghiaie della Furba wine was held at the company. Since 1998 the wine has been made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah grapes.
The vintages tasted were 1979, 1985, 1994, 1998, 2000, 2006, 2010, 2015, 2017 and 2019.
The wine was invented by Count Ugo Contini Bonaccossi and the first vintage produced was 1979, initially it was made from Cabernet and Merlot grapes and was raised, in French barriques, for more than a year. Exactly it was composed of 1/3 Cabernet Sauvignon, 1/3 Cabernet Franc and 1/3 Merlot.
In 1992 Cabernet Sauvignon went up to 60%, Merlot remained at 30% and Cabernet Franc was reduced to 10%. With the 1998 vintage, Cabernet Franc was replaced with Syrah. Ghiaie della Furba is produced from vineyards that have an altitude ranging from 200 to 300 meters above sea level, on clayey soils for Merlot and clayey limestone for Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah.
Let’s go back to the day dedicated to the tasting of this pleasant wine.
The day was kissed by the sun.
The guests, all journalists, were about thirty. The tasting was conducted by the oenologist Dr. Franco Bernabei who illustrated each vintage of the wines tasted. Then came the brothers: Benedetta, Beatrice and Filippo Contini Bonacossi.
After the tasting we moved to the cellar where a long table had been set up for lunch, next to the grapes suitable for becoming vin santo.
Before lunch we were served a rosé sparkling wine (Charmat method) and the pleasant white wine Trebbiano vintage 2021.
At the table we were served Villa di Capezzana 2019, with an exciting nose.
We were then served a preview of the 10-year-old Villa di Capezzana, vintage 2013 with a spicy nose and mouth pleasantly caressed by tannins.
Then it was the turn of the Trefiano 2018 accompanied by the 2008 which had a pleasant ripe blackberry on the palate.
This was followed by the 100% Sangiovese Ugo Contini Bonacossi vintage 2018 IGT Toscana wine, a very pleasant wine even if still very young.
Lastly, with the almond crumble with vin santo ice cream, we were served vin santo 2015, Carmignano Riserva DOC.
Here are my notes on this last wine:
Orange color with brown textures.
On the nose it has aromas of almond hard shell, black pepper, honey, caramel, varnish enamel, dried fig and dried hay.
On the palate its sweetness envelops the entire oral cavity, it is dense with an important medium body. It tastes like apricot tart and dried fig. This 2015 reminds me of other vintages such as the 2000 in which the power and concentration are felt a lot. The freshness dominates the alcoholic mass. It is a very sweet wine which, in my opinion, is best appreciated with dessert because in doing so its sweetness is reduced. Long is its gustatory persistence.
(99/100)
My vertical tasting notes follow
As regards the width of the tannin, it is important that I make the following clarifications, so that it can be understood. I feel the tannin of the wine on the upper gum. The total width of the tannin is 6/6, i.e. the entire width of the upper gum. Obviously, if the tannin is less wide, it could be for example 5/6 and so on. The width of the tannin is important when the quality of the same is of a good or high level. The broader the tannin, the more the wine is worthy of attention, but the tannin, as I specified, must in any case be of good quality.
Let’s now go on to describe the wines tasted.
TENUTA DI CAPEZZANA
GHIAIE DELLA FURBA, vintage 1979
(Grapes: 34% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Cabernet Franc e 33% Merlot)
Cool spring then hot summer with uniform and normal rainfall. There was rain in October which created some problems but the quality of the Cabernet was perfect.
The glass reveals a garnet red with a fine orange edge.
Varied and pleasant nose made up of aromas of blackberry, plum, mint, eucalyptus, slight hints of leather at the end of the processing, camphor, orange peel, earth, star anise, black pepper and intense and pleasant whiffs of nutmeg.
On the palate, the body is medium, just enough, with flavors of plum, blackberry and blueberry. The balance between alcohol and freshness is a little fluctuating, while the tannins are sweet, quite broad (5/6–) and velvety. Savory wine with a pleasant freshness which at times is a little overwhelmed by the alcoholic mass.
Its taste persistence is long.
(89++/100)
TENUTA DI CAPEZZANA
GHIAIE DELLA FURBA, vintage 1985
(Grapes: 34% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Cabernet Franc e 33% Merlot)
The first three months of the year were very rainy, dry April, slightly rainy May and August and completely dry September and October. The grapes have reached perfect ripeness.
Garnet red dress
Woody aromas rise from the glass, sweet episperm (second skin of the boiled brown), cherry, mint, eucalyptus, earth, boiled milk cream, balsamic from gazzozzola, medicinal herbs, leather, camphor, intense dry hay, wild fennel , to end with puffs of blonde Virginia tobacco.
On the palate it has medium body and the balance is a bit fluctuating between alcohol and freshness.
The tannins are sweet, quite wide (5/6) initially velvety and then dry the upper gum a little. Its gustatory persistence is long, with a fruity finish of blackberry and plum.
(89/100)
TENUTA DI CAPEZZANA
GHIAIE DELLA FURBA, vintage 1994
(Grapes: 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot e 20%Cabernet Franc)
In July and August it was very hot, while in mid-September it rained frequently, favoring good ripening of the grapes.
Intense ruby red and garnet colour.
Slight aromas of black olive, cherry, plum, blackberry, camphor, mint, eucalyptus, earth, medicinal herbs, hay, black pepper, nutmeg, almond and boiled rice starch. Closes this rich olfactory examination with notes of rusty iron.
On the palate the wine has a medium body and is balanced with the alcohol mass which is dominated by a generous freshness and tannins. The latter are sweet, quite large (5/6), initially velvety and then dry the upper gum a little. Its gustatory persistence is long, with a finish of carob and blond tobacco from Virginia.
(90/100)
TENUTA DI CAPEZZANA
GHIAIE DELLA FURBA, vintage 1998
(Grapes: 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, e 10% Syrah)
Very hot summer which anticipated the harvest by 15 days which took place by the end of September with the exception of the Cabernet Sauvignon, which was harvested until the end of October.
Intense ruby red and garnet red.
The olfactory examination perceives aromas of Indian ink, coffee bean, black pepper, nutmeg, mint, eucalyptus, plum, wormy chestnut, starch (spray starch for ironing), black olive, vegetable leather (worked leather) to finish with puffs of iodine.
On the palate it has a medium body, is sapid and is a little tart. Balanced wine between alcohol and freshness while the tannins are sweet, wide (6/6–) initially velvety and then dry and burn the upper gum. Its gustatory persistence is long with a finish of plum, blueberry and black olive.
(90/100)
TENUTA DI CAPEZZANA
GHIAIE DELLA FURBA, vintage 2000
(Grapes: 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, e 10% Syrah)
Mild winter followed by an early spring with early vegetative growth. A few cold days and sporadic frosts. Harvest started on September 10th.
Ruby and garnet red dress.
On the nose emerge aromas of slightly candied cherry, slight alcohol of cherries in spirit, mint, eucalyptus, worked leather, carob, earth, starch (spray starch for ironing), episperm (sweet second skin of boiled brown) India ink, black olive, milk chocolate, Mediterranean herbs to end with pinches of incense.
On the palate it has a medium plus body and has a pleasant taste of blueberry, plum and blackberry. Balanced wine between alcohol and freshness. The tannins are sweet, quite wide (5/6), initially velvety and then dry and slightly burn the upper gum. Long is its intense aromatic persistence with a fruity plum finish.
(93/100)
TENUTA DI CAPEZZANA
GHIAIE DELLA FURBA, vintage 2006
(Grapes: 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, e 10% Syrah)
Le vigne hanno avuto un perfetto equilibrio vegetativo e quindi una perfetta maturazione delle uve.
Dal bicchiere traspare il colore rosso rubino e porpora.
The vines had a perfect vegetative balance and therefore a perfect ripening of the grapes.
The ruby red and purple color shines from the glass.
The olfactory casket opens to aromas of black pepper, nutmeg, plum, blackberry, blueberry, mint, eucalyptus, slight rhubarb, vanilla, camphor, dry hay, starch (spray starch for ironing), intense chamomile plant, helichrysum, earth, myrtle, to end with hints of licorice in small grains.
On the palate it has medium body plus juicy plum and blueberry flavor, there is a slight swing between alcohol and crispness, while the tannins are sweet, thick, quite broad (5/6–) and velvety. Its gustatory persistence is long with a trail of fruit flavors already tasted initially.
(92/100)
TENUTA DI CAPEZZANA
GHIAIE DELLA FURBA, vintage 2010
(Grapes: 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, e 10% Syrah)
The grapes ripen with a considerable delay due to the frequent spring rains which continued throughout the summer. The harvest gave elegant but not powerful wines.
Ruby red robe with purple reflections.
Olfactory mix made of scents of tannery leather, boiled rice starch, mint, eucalyptus, plum, blueberry, slight lemongrass (citronella), black pepper, nutmeg, ending with juniper berry echoes.
Tasting that highlights a medium body and a good balance between alcohol and freshness.
The tannins are sweet, thick, quite wide (5/6), initially velvety to then be a bit drying and burn on the upper gum. Its intense aromatic persistence is long.
(91/100)
TENUTA DI CAPEZZANA
GHIAIE DELLA FURBA, vintage 2015
(Grapes: 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, e 10% Syrah)
A rainy winter followed by a very hot spring and a summer with lots of sun and little rain.
Harvested in September with perfectly ripe grapes. The wines obtained were well structured with important tannins.
Intense ruby red and purple coat. Nutmeg emerges in relief on the nose, followed by black pepper, graphite, plum, slight mint and eucalyptus, earthy musk, varnish enamel, wet earth, black olive tree and cherry.
Very pleasant gustatory examination with flavors of plum, chocolate, blackberry, blueberry and currant.
The body is medium plus. Well balanced wine with alcohol mass dominated by freshness and tannins. The latter are sweet, large (6/6–) velvety and exuberant. Powerful and pleasant wine with long persistence on the palate.
(94+/100)
TENUTA DI CAPEZZANA
GHIAIE DELLA FURBA, vintage 2017
(Grapes: 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, e 10% Syrah)
Not an easy year. The late frosts between 20 and 21 April, the spring and the dry summer created considerable difficulties in some vineyards. Production was reduced by 80%.
Fine and elegant nose with aromas of cherry, intense starch, black pepper, nutmeg, mint, eucalyptus, blond leather, capers and licorice.
On the palate it reveals a medium body (less than that of 2015). Wine slightly fluctuating between alcohol and freshness while the tannins are sweet enough large (5/6–) initially silky to then slightly burn the upper gum. Plum flavor that remains during its long gustatory persistence..
(92/100)
TENUTA DI CAPEZZANA
GHIAIE DELLA FURBA, vintage 2019
(Grapes: 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, e 10% Syrah)
Very dry winter with rainy May, cool June followed by a sunny summer season. The wines were full of aromas and very elegant.
It was a 5-star harvest for the company.
Purple red colour.
Olfactory richness made of aromas of plum, red peach, blackberry, cherry, mint, eucalyptus, black pepper, nutmeg, intense lemongrassa (citronella), laurel, to end with slight hints of boisè and rust.
When tasted it reveals a medium body, fine and elegant (not as powerful as that of 2015) balanced wine thanks to the freshness and tannins. The latter are sweet, quite broad (5/6–) a little rough (youthful impetus). Its taste persistence is good and long.
Young but already pleasant wine.
My rating is in flux.
(93/100)
