It was a beautiful evening, under the stars of Versilia, the one that took place at the Bagno “La Bussola”, in Marina di Pietrasanta. Evening perfectly organized by Leo Damiani, general manager of Italy of Masion Perrier-Jouet, with the advice of Studio Mercatali srl, in the person of its president Gianni Marcatali. When Leo Damiani thinks about an event, he makes it perfect. The location was the historic one of Bagno “La Bussola”, which had already come to the fore in the 60s, with its slightly fané charm. The evening took place with an initial aperitif of Gran-Brut served in magnum bottles, perfectly cold, at the moment of sunset barefoot, by the sea, enjoying a show entitled “Undress in time” with the actor Renato Raimo and pianist Isabella Turso, authors of the show. The plot is a rundown of the way of saying “I love you”, from Mozart, up to the present times “the era of whatsapp”. The authors want to take the art of the show out of traditional theater and this evening was a pleasant example. All the selected guests were asked to wear white dresses.
The show lasted for about an hour, which flew off with the full involvement of all the participants, who were about a hundred. At the end of the show we were escorted to the tables at the beginning of the beach. The catering was that of the historic restaurant in Florence “Harry’s Bar”. Pink tablecloths in the classic style of Harry’s bar in Florence, waiters with seawater-colored jackets that matched perfectly with the colors that identify the Maison Perrier Jouet. The champagne was on the table and after the first passage of the waiters, the bottles were placed in buckets full of ice and water, in order to maintain the perfect temperature. We come to the evening menu. The Grand Brut was served during the aperitif combined with fried sticks with cheese and cooked ham inside. The first double course which was the “warm seafood”, and the “curry prawn tails with pilaf rice and mango chutney”, was paired with Blanc de Blancs, not vintage. Perfect marriage, with the sapidity and minerality of champagne, in prominence.
Afterwards they were served “milanesine with concassé tomato and anchovy” and to follow the typical “Harry’s beef carpaccio”, all bathed in a fruity and mineral “Blason Rosé”.
The Belle Epoque 2012 champagne kissed a splendid plate of “fresh pasta maltagliati with clams and bottarga”. The light sprinkling of bottarga did not overwhelm the flavor of the clams but brought them out. The Belle Epoque 2012 with its minerality, freshness and elegance perfectly married the dish.
To finish, the “buontalenti with raspberry” ice cream was served. The pairing was with Kaloro wine, Moscato di Trani, produced by the Apulian company Tormaresca of the Marchesi Antinori. Wine with honey notes, with a caramel finish that marries the honey of ice cream.
The Harry’s bar staff carried out an impeccable service with their usual professionalism, under the guidance of their director Roberto Focardi.
Following the tasting notes of the evening’s champagne.
PERRIER JOUET GRAND BRUT, not vintage
(Grapes: 40% Pinot Noir, 40% Pinot Meunier and 20% Chardonnay)
Intense golden yellow color with gray-green reflections.
The bubbles are initially quite coarse, and then become quite fine and quite numerous.
The nose reveals all its richness and variety starting with the copious notes of mineral, salt and rust. Followed by floral aromas reminiscent of apple and lime, as well as brioche bread, vanilla, quite ripe rennet apple and light of star anise. The olfactory path continues with tones of rice starch, parsley, yellow grapefruit, kaiser pear and green hazelnut. On the palate it is savory and mineral and has a medium body. The bubbles are quite fine. Flavors of lemon and yellow grapefruit that remain even during its long persistence. One is amazed because on the one hand it is round and wide and on the other hand it has a copious freshness that makes it perfectly balanced. It is a champagne with an initial mature flavor and then brings out a generous freshness that is identified with the citrus note.
(90/100)
Chardonnay is composed of Cru di Cramant, Avize, Chouilly and Le Mesnil which contribute, in the assembly, to bring freshness and minerality.
Pinot Noir comes from the Crus from the Reims Mountains: Mailly, Verzy, and Verzenay and brings vinous and delicate structure.
Pinot Meunier comes from the vineyards of Dizy, Damery, Venteuil or Vincelles and brings fruity aromas and integrates perfectly with the other two grape varieties.
From 12% to 20% of reserve wines from previous vintages are added to the assembly in order to give olfactory and gustatory continuity depending on the vintage.
Before going on the market, the grand brut stays in the cellar for at least three years.
PERRIER JOUET BLANC DE BLANCS, not vintage
(Grapes: 100% Chardonnay)
Shiny golden yellow with slight gray-green shades. The bubbles are quite numerous and of medium fineness.
On the nose the salty and mineral notes explode with hints of popcorn, just made. Followed by floral aromas of acacia and elderberry, intense of grated lemon peel, pear and blond leather (the fresh one that has nuances reminiscent of capers with a whisper of anchovy). Finish with hints of starch on a freshly ironed warm cloth. On the palate the bubbles are quite fine and the body is medium enough. Intense sapid and mineral flavors (lips are quite salty) and lemon. Rich is the acidity that completely covers the alcoholic mass. The body tends to thin but the freshness and minerality lengthen its pleasant persistence. Always mineral, savory and citrusy lemon finish.
(91/100)
Chardonnay comes from the best Champagne Crus and its characteristics are freshness, minerality and scents of white flowers. Depending on the vintage, the origin of the chardonnays varies from one blend to another. All this is done to ensure the constancy of both olfactory and gustatory quality. For this purpose, up to 15% of reserve wines from the previous two or three years are used.
PERRIER JOUET BLASON ROSÉ, not vintage.
(Grapes: 50% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay and 25% Pinot Meunier)
Pink color reminiscent of antique pink and salmon with coppery textures. The bubbles are initially coarse and then become quite fine and numerous.
Intriguing, varied and pleasant olfactory mix with aromas of raspberry, intense flint (mineral a little smoky) and intense brackish (it seems to be on a rock, in front of a stormy sea with the waves that refract on the rocks and send you the evaporation of brackish on the face), light chinotto, starch of the cotton cloth, red rose, blond leather, rust, milk cream, pine resin, tangerine light, parsley, summer melon, brewer’s yeast, pastry and orange peel.
On the gustatory examination the bubbles are pleasant, caressing. The body is medium, sufficient. The wine is richly savory and mineral with a generous freshness that does not make the alcoholic note feel. At the entrance, as well as during its persistence, you can feel flavors reminiscent of bitter, pink grapefruit, lemon, parsley, and salt. Beautiful champagne that has a rich nose and taste even if it does not have a particular structure, it has a wealth of flavors, acidity and minerality.
(90/100)
The Blason rosé is the first rosé champagne created by the Maison.
Chardonnay comes from the Crus of Cramant, Avize or Choully and is characterized by its freshness, minerality and liveliness.
Pinot Noir comes from the crus of the mountains of Reims, Vallée de la Marne or de l’Aube, Verzy, Ay or the Riceys. is characterized by the structure.
Pinot Meunier comes from the Vallée de la Marne: Dizy, but also Damery, Venteuil or Vincelles.
From 12% to 20% of reserve wines from previous vintages are added to the assembly.
The Blason Rosè remains in the cellars for at least three years.
PERRIER JOUET BELLE EPOQUE, vintage 2012
(Grapes: 50% Chardonnay, 45% Pinot Noir and 5% Pinot Meunier)
Shiny golden yellow dress with slight gray-green reflections.
The bubbles are fine and quite numerous.
The olfactory examination highlights the flint and the brackish. Then follow aromas of juicy pear, white flowers among which anemones stand out, blond leather, cotton starch, mineral smoking, both ripe and dried banana. Final, slightly, of pastry and salted grilled almond.
On the palate the bubble is fine and caressing. Sapidity and minerality accompanied by notes of lemon, yellow grapefruit and pear. The body is measuredly medium, set on elegance rather than power. Thanks to the flavor, minerality and generous, but dosed, freshness, the wine is perfectly balanced, not letting the alcoholic mass feel, even with the imagination. Its delicate but present persistence is long with a mineral and citrusy finish of lemon and yellow grapefruit, immediately felt.
(96/100)
I remember 2011 with a little less structure and more freshness. This 2012 is approaching, for me, the fantastic 2008.
The Chardonnay comes from the Grands Crus of Cramant and Avize and gives freshness, minerality and delicacy of structure and elegance.
Pinot Noir comes from the north of the Montagna di Reims and brings the necessary, not excessive, structure.
Pinot Meunier comes from Dizy and performs a function of balance between the freshness and elegance of Chardonnay and the body of Pinot Noir.
This champagne rests in meditation in the cellar for at least five years, before being put on the market. The 2012 vintage followed other important vintages such as 2002, 2004, 2006 and 2008. 2012 was characterized by a mild winter, a cool spring and a hot and sunny summer. This 2012 reminds me a lot of 2008, for its elegance, freshness, minerality and floreality. Champagne characterized not by power but by elegance and femininity.
At the end of this wonderful evening, the guests circled Leo Damiani to express their compliments and thanks. What event will it be next year?
