It’s been a while since I went to the Langhe. Every time I go there, the landscape that surrounds me gives me strong emotions. The hills are full of vineyards and in the early morning, even in spring, there are the mists that partially hide the vineyards and with their thinning out this
enchanted landscape.
The lawyer friend Paolo Spiga who lives in Turin, whom I met years ago abroad during the August holidays with my son Andrea and my wife Sara, organized this three-day event in the Langhe in May.
We stayed at the Locanda del Pilone, on a hill in Alba, inside the Boroli producer’s estate. I had already been to this facility for an important wine conference. During these days we went for lunch and dinner at some restaurants including that of Locanda il Pilone, a Michelin star restaurant where the chef is the talented Federico Gallo. Another restaurant was the Trattoria della Posta in Monforte, a restaurant with classic Langhe cuisine also equipped with a pleasant cellar looked after by the young and talented sommelier Mauro. What can we say about the dinner we had at Ciau del Tornavento, a restaurant with a Michelin star whose chef is Maurilio Garola. Restaurant equipped with a cellar worthy of attention with large formats of wine bottles, especially Italian ones. We had an excellent dinner in this modern restaurant. We drank very well, starting with the Champagne brut Encry and then enjoying an Austrian wine by Rudi Pichler, Ried Kollmutz Gruner Veltliner 2018, a savory, mineral, citrus, fruity and floral wine. The next wine was the Toscanto Montevertine from the Montevertine company, 2015 vintage. This is a vintage that gave the wines of this company a lot of structure without negatively impacting the elegance. We completed our pleasant dinner by drinking a fantastic Marsala Riserva Florio “Aegusa” vintage 2001 with a rich variety of aromas of spices, candied fruit and caramel. All the wines of the evening were very welcome but everyone liked this one the most due to the complexity of its aromas and flavours.
This restaurant certainly has one of the most important Italian cellars. Allow me to say that it has nothing to do with the Pinchiorri wine shop in Florence which also has bottles of wine from the 19th century and an assortment of Burgundy and Bordeaux wines that are very enviable and difficult to find.
Another restaurant visited is the one located inside the municipal cellar of Castglione Falletto where we ate and drank very well. Taking a step back, when I spoke with Paolo a few months ago I told him that it would be interesting to go to the Prunotto winery, to taste their wines, a winery owned by the Antinori family whose director is Gianluca Torrengo, a nice person, professionally trained and highly motivated. I then spoke by telephone with Gianluca who told me he was available to receive us on Saturday morning in Bussia at one of the Antinori companies, headed by Prunotto.
Having reported this to Paolo, he told me that his partner Viola Erdini, his brother Alberto and their companion Giovanna Simone would be very happy to have this experience with us.
On the pre-arranged Saturday we went to Bussia to Gianluca who welcomed us warmly together with Mrs. Tiziana Gallo who takes care of the reception and tastings. Gianluca gave us an overview of the most important wines produced by the company.
As regards the width of the tannin, it is important that you make the following clarifications, so that it can be understood. I feel the tannin of the wine on the upper gum. The total width of the tannin is 6/6, i.e. the entire width of the upper gum. Obviously, if the tannin is less wide, it could be for example 5/6 and so on. The width of the tannin is important when the quality of the same is of a good or high level. If the tannin is wider, the wine is more worthy of attention, but the tannin, as I specified, must in any case be of good quality.
Let us now describe the wines tasted.
PRUNOTTO
PIAN ROMUALDO, vintage 2021
Barbera d’Alba D.O.C.
Wine produced since 1961 in the vineyards of the municipality of Monforte d’Alba. These vineyards are favored by the temperature variations between day and night which give the wine an evident freshness and aromatic richness.
Transparent ruby-purple red
The olfactory examination highlights the aromas of cherry, mint, eucalyptus, rosemary, sage, boiled chestnut with dried wild fennel, sweets from the external part of the sugared almond, blond Virginia tobacco, red rose, ending with whispers of tomato preserve.
When tasted, it has a medium body and abundant acidity. The wine is quite balanced between freshness and alcohol while the tannins are sweet, broad (5/6–) initially silky and then slightly burn the upper gum.
Its taste persistence is long. (89++/100)
PRUNOTTO
BANSELLA NIZZA D.O.C.G., vintage 2020
The Nizza area is considered the best for making an excellent Barbera.
The soils are characterized by veins of silt and sand.
Ruby and garnet red color, with pink onion-colored edge.
Olfactory range made of aromas of chocolate and mint (after eight chocolate), cherry paint glaze, black pepper, nutmeg, episperm (sweet from boiled chestnut skin), licorice grains and in the finish hints of blond leather.
Upon tasting it reveals a sufficient medium body and is quite balanced. The tannins are sweet, fine and quite broad (5/6), initially silky and then burn the upper gum a little. Its intense aromatic persistence is long with an episperm finish.
The influence of wood is a little too evident. (88/100)
PRUNOTTO
OCCHETTI, vintage 2021
Langhe D.O.C. Nebbiolo
Wine produced since the 70s.
The soil is composed of stratified shallow sands with gravel layers and clay-limestone interpositions.
Brick red dress
(Nebbiolo never has a purple color)
On the nose, the aromas of pear and cherry in spirit are highlighted, followed by mint, eucalyptus, paint enamel, red rose, medicinal herbs and blond Virginia tobacco.
Upon tasting, it reveals a medium delicate, sufficient body. Wine with good balance between alcohol and freshness.
The tannins are sweet, quite broad (5/6) initially velvety and then slightly drying the upper gum. Flavor of pear that remains during its long intense aromatic persistence. (90/100)
PRUNOTTO
SECONDINE, vintage 2020
Barbaresco D.O.C.G.
(The first vintage produced was 2017)
The vineyards are located in the most suitable areas for the production of Barbaresco and Nebbiolo. The Secondine vineyards are located at the foot of the Secondine village, in the small valley that reaches Moccagatta from the Tanaro river, passing through the Pajé basin.
Transparent light brown robe.
From the glass rise floral aromas, mint, eucalyptus, pear, rust, sweet pear, sweet from the outside of the sugared almond, blond tobacco from Virginia, light of petrol, intense of Valda candy, finishing with whiffs of mothballs.
Pleasant tasting, the wine has a medium body, delicate and has a good balance between alcohol and freshness. The tannins are sweet, quite broad (5/6+), initially velvety and then slightly drying the upper gum. Its taste persistence is long with a balsamic finish reminiscent of Valda candy.
Nice drink! (91/100)
PRUNOTTO
BRIC TUROT, vintage 2020
Barbaresco D.O.C.G.
The vineyards are exposed differently because they live on a hill (bricco in Piedmontese) whose conformation is varied.
There is also a clonal selection while the refinement takes place in large barrels of different capacities.
Light brown color.
Earthy floral aromas, light scents of lavender, mint, eucalyptus, almond shell, light scents of espisperm (boiled chestnut skin), finishing with hints of medicinal herbs.
The taste encounter reveals a medium body and a pleasant flavor.
Wine well balanced between alcohol and freshness, the latter completely dominates.
The tannins are sweet, broad (6/6–), initially silky and then dry the upper gum a little. Its taste persistence is long. (92/100)
PRUNOTTO
BAROLO BUSSIA, vintage 2019
Barolo D.O.C.G.
The vineyards are located on a beautiful amphitheater in the Bussia area of Monforte d’Alba. First year of production 1961.
The vineyards are all exposed from south-west to south.
The wine is aged in large barrels.
A light brick red shines from the glass.
The sense of smell highlights aromas of earth, India ink, dried raspberry, chinotto, mint, eucalyptus, starch (starch spray for ironing), red apple, hints of episperm (sweet from the skin of the boiled chestnut), rhubarb root to finish with whispers of dried, boiled wild fennel.
The taste encounter highlights a medium body and an excellent taste balance between alcohol and freshness. The tannins are sweet, broad (6/6-) initially velvety and then dry, slightly on the upper gum. Its intense aromatic persistence is long with a rhubarb root finish accompanied by a slightly sweet note. (94/100)
PRUNOTTO
CERRETTA, vintage 2019
Barolo D.O.C.G.
(1st production year 2017)
The vineyard is located in the Serralunga area. The vineyards are exposed in a heterogeneous way while the refinement takes place in large barrels.
Light brick dress.
Varied olfactory profile made up of aromas of cooked apple, mint, eucalyptus, slight aromas of India ink, medicinal herbs, slight aromas of episperm, hydrolytin (powder used to make water sparkling) and leather saddle.
With an empty glass you can smell aromas of bitter chocolate and slightly candied cherry.
The body is medium but delicate and the wine is well balanced, with freshness dominating the alcoholic mass without second thoughts.
The tannins are sweet, quite broad (5/6) and silky. Its persistence is long with a finish of blond Virginia tobacco and dry wild fennel. (93/100)
PRUNOTTO
MOSCONI, vintage 2019
Barolo D.O.C.G.
(the vineyards are on white soil and the grapes are small)
Intense brick color.
Olfactory profile composed of aromas of blond leather, slight aromas of fig leaf, mint, eucalyptus, medicinal herbs, toffee, slight aromas of espisperm (boiled chestnut skin) to end with whispers of star anise.
When tasted, it has a medium body and is well balanced with the alcohol mass dominated by freshness and tannins, the latter being sweet, broad (6/6–) and silky.
Its taste persistence is long with a bitter finish reminiscent of chinotto.
Fine and elegant wine. (95/100)
PRUNOTTO
VIGNA COLONNELLO riserva Bussia, vintage 2017
Barolo D.O.C.G.
Vigna Colonnello is a one hectare vineyard located in the Monforte area.
The tannins are velvety and expresses finesse and elegance that originates from the Tortonian soil, characterized by bluish marls and the typical power of Serravallian soils. The latter are characterized by alternating layers of clayey marl and to a lesser extent sand. The soils are therefore silty with a fair percentage of clay and decidedly calcareous sand.
The grapes are harvested with part of the stems. Of the 2017 vintage, 5000 bottles were produced.
Transparent brick color dress.
It expresses nuances of paint enamel, cherry jam, sweets from the outside of the sugared almond, very light trichlorethylene, light black pepper and nutmeg, Valda candy, blond leather.
The olfactory journey continues with notes of red apple, light episperm, blond Virginia tobacco, hot starched cloth, crushed grape seed, ending with memories of straw.
The oral cavity is satisfied by a medium body and a perfect balance between alcohol and freshness.
The tannins are sweet, broad (6/6–), initially velvety and then dry on the upper gum.
Its intense aromatic persistence is long.
Fine and elegant wine with a pleasant sweetness. The tannins are a little drying probably because being still young you can feel the tannins of the stems.
In my experience, normally in order for the slightly aggressive tannins of the stems to no longer be felt, the wine must mature for several years.
(95/100)
We thanked both Gianluca and Mrs. Tiziana Gallo for their hospitality and I complimented Gianluca for the qualitative improvements in the wines.
Gianluca will be waiting for us in November to go and eat truffle dishes together after having done an important vertical (multiple vintages of the same wine) of ………………….. ?
I’m curious, honestly it will be a unique event!
